Suspension Options
#1
Suspension Options
What are my options for making this car handle even better? What do u guys recomend and what will it cost me. I would liek to get it to pull around .9gs on teh skid pad altough i know there will be no way to know what it will do. I want to hold and give close to no noticable body roll. I would like it to be able to hold a left hand turn at around 50 mph without it loseing it.
#2
Re: Suspension Options
the best thing would be springs and shocks....
probably $200 for springs, and $400 for bilstein shocks
the next step, and much easier to install, would be sway bars. i paid about $300 shipped for my 32/21mm solid bars, with endliinks and bushings, from BMR and it made a HUGE difference in cornering ability...on stock shocks/springs.
probably $200 for springs, and $400 for bilstein shocks
the next step, and much easier to install, would be sway bars. i paid about $300 shipped for my 32/21mm solid bars, with endliinks and bushings, from BMR and it made a HUGE difference in cornering ability...on stock shocks/springs.
#5
Re: Suspension Options
doesn't the Z pull nearly .9g on the skidpad stock??
i'm shocked i forgot to mention the SFC. they really make the car more responsive in corners. allows the suspension to do it's job instead of trying to pick up the slack after the body flexes.
depending on money i would do this to start:
SFC
swaybars
shocks (depending on mileage...although stock decarbons SUCK new)
springs
shock tower brace
panhard bar
lower control arms
this is all assuming you have good tires...since the bottom line is that you can have the best suspension, but it won't do **** if the tires won't hold the road
i'm shocked i forgot to mention the SFC. they really make the car more responsive in corners. allows the suspension to do it's job instead of trying to pick up the slack after the body flexes.
depending on money i would do this to start:
SFC
swaybars
shocks (depending on mileage...although stock decarbons SUCK new)
springs
shock tower brace
panhard bar
lower control arms
this is all assuming you have good tires...since the bottom line is that you can have the best suspension, but it won't do **** if the tires won't hold the road
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Poway CA, where GOD and the sun always shines
Posts: 420
Re: Suspension Options
Originally Posted by apg96
What are my options for making this car handle even better? What do u guys recomend and what will it cost me. I would liek to get it to pull around .9gs on teh skid pad altough i know there will be no way to know what it will do. I want to hold and give close to no noticable body roll. I would like it to be able to hold a left hand turn at around 50 mph without it loseing it.
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/
SteveC
#8
Re: Suspension Options
Originally Posted by Greed4Speed
Also may want to try the suspension section instead of the LS1 engine section.
#11
Re: Suspension Options
Tires and SFCs. Shocks, springs if you want, and swaybars.
BMR is NOT the only answer. There are many others Spohn, Wolfe, UMI to name a few. Plus these others usually cost a little less too. BMR has had some quality issues in the past and many will not buy from them because of it.
BMR is NOT the only answer. There are many others Spohn, Wolfe, UMI to name a few. Plus these others usually cost a little less too. BMR has had some quality issues in the past and many will not buy from them because of it.
Last edited by Greed4Speed; 09-05-2005 at 08:26 AM.
#12
Re: Suspension Options
Or you could contact someone who's deal it is to make the car actually handle better, not just build a bunch of parts.
PROPER shocks are top of the list. Swaybars are second. Then springs (in order of importance, but they are easier to install with shocks). SFC's *NOT* (note the asteriks and large letters) needed for a better handling car. Folks find a big difference because the rest of the suspension they have sucks. And things that make the chassis quiver shouldn't get into the chassis in the first place, but because they don't have good shocks, etc. those impacts do get in and the SFC's help once that happens. Same with a STB, largely irrelevant on a 4th gen because of the way the front suspension is setup. Will help a car that has a bad time with impacts and damping, but does not help a car with good dampers.
And for the record, a 32mm bar is not enough if you really want the car to work, and a 25mm rear bar is too much. In short you want to be around 35/21-22mm bars, and ideally like them to be hollow to save useless weight.
PROPER shocks are top of the list. Swaybars are second. Then springs (in order of importance, but they are easier to install with shocks). SFC's *NOT* (note the asteriks and large letters) needed for a better handling car. Folks find a big difference because the rest of the suspension they have sucks. And things that make the chassis quiver shouldn't get into the chassis in the first place, but because they don't have good shocks, etc. those impacts do get in and the SFC's help once that happens. Same with a STB, largely irrelevant on a 4th gen because of the way the front suspension is setup. Will help a car that has a bad time with impacts and damping, but does not help a car with good dampers.
And for the record, a 32mm bar is not enough if you really want the car to work, and a 25mm rear bar is too much. In short you want to be around 35/21-22mm bars, and ideally like them to be hollow to save useless weight.
#14
Re: Suspension Options
Originally Posted by 01 FS Z28
Or you could contact someone who's deal it is to make the car actually handle better, not just build a bunch of parts.
PROPER shocks are top of the list. Swaybars are second. Then springs (in order of importance, but they are easier to install with shocks). SFC's *NOT* (note the asteriks and large letters) needed for a better handling car. Folks find a big difference because the rest of the suspension they have sucks. And things that make the chassis quiver shouldn't get into the chassis in the first place, but because they don't have good shocks, etc. those impacts do get in and the SFC's help once that happens. Same with a STB, largely irrelevant on a 4th gen because of the way the front suspension is setup. Will help a car that has a bad time with impacts and damping, but does not help a car with good dampers.
And for the record, a 32mm bar is not enough if you really want the car to work, and a 25mm rear bar is too much. In short you want to be around 35/21-22mm bars, and ideally like them to be hollow to save useless weight.
PROPER shocks are top of the list. Swaybars are second. Then springs (in order of importance, but they are easier to install with shocks). SFC's *NOT* (note the asteriks and large letters) needed for a better handling car. Folks find a big difference because the rest of the suspension they have sucks. And things that make the chassis quiver shouldn't get into the chassis in the first place, but because they don't have good shocks, etc. those impacts do get in and the SFC's help once that happens. Same with a STB, largely irrelevant on a 4th gen because of the way the front suspension is setup. Will help a car that has a bad time with impacts and damping, but does not help a car with good dampers.
And for the record, a 32mm bar is not enough if you really want the car to work, and a 25mm rear bar is too much. In short you want to be around 35/21-22mm bars, and ideally like them to be hollow to save useless weight.
I was going to suggest he look for your name in this forum. Only thing was I couldn't remember your name. Im not in here much but every now and again I come to check out the suspension info and I remember a while back someone recommended you for better handling advise.