RedRyder518

My car seems to have two reoccurring problems: the oxygen sensors and the brakes. Last March, I replaced my pads and rotors both up front and back with Raybestos rotors and Raybestos ceramic Quietstop pads because I had a problem with the rotors warping. They seemed to work really well up until recently.

Just to let you know before hand, I am NOT hard on my brakes. I think in the entire past year I have done maybe one emergency stop and no other hard stops. Yesterday it all started again, the oscillation in the steering wheel when I am braking from about 50 mph and higher. It was a rather random occurrance as I was running my buddy in his '96 Z28 and I did a LIGHT brake from about 100 or so down to 70 (I did not slam on the brakes, or even remotely brake hard, just to slow down a little).

Another point is that my ABS INOP light has been coming on sometimes. When I shut the car off and start it back up, the light usually goes off, and this is also another random occurrance as it doesn't do it every time. My question being: What would cause my rotors to warp so soon, like in under a year? I am now considering upgrading my brakes, but I am pretty ignorant as far as what is out there and what is good. I do have a somewhat limited budget as I have maybe $1000 to work with, maybe a little more if necessary. I am not a road racer/auto-x but mostly drag racing.

Thanks a bunch and sorry if this post was long!

schimek

Area you really sure they are warped? I just did my brakes and you need to make sure you get all the mounting surfaces clean for the new rotors. I had a fair amount of corrosion on the front bearing and rear axles. I also put a light coating of antiseize to prevent corrosion from occuring on those surfaces. If you have some corrosion on these surfaces the rotor will not sit true. Also the caliper mounting points must be clean and free from corrosion and the torque values must be followed.

The best advice I can give you is to take the rotors off and measure for straightness. If they are off replace them and make sure the mating surfaces are clean.

RedRyder518

I would totaly agree with you on all that but this is almost a year later and just happened randomly. I did a search on here and some have commented on making sure that you torque your wheels in a star pattern, which I do every time and to 100 ft-lbs.

revtime

I run mine at 80 ft lbs and never had a problem. I do check them every 3 weeks or so.
I went with Autozones Aimco Extreme cross drilled and slotted rotors and they have been excellent for me. I have 27k on them now with plenty of hard stops when participating in the old stop light drags.
No warping, no cracks, I would not use them to autocross but for the street they worked out great for me.

Greed4Speed

How much do those raybestos rotors weigh? What you want is a front rotor in the 19 lb range. Baers are over 20 lbs. X-drilled will do nothing for you btw.

I have never torqued my lugs. I just tighten them by hand with a lug wrench.

Hard stops aren't what causes warpage. Its how they cool down.

You may also want to get some better pads.

If you want to upgrade your brakes, look into the C5 conversions.

RedRyder518

How would you cool them to prevent warpage? I was under the impression that the pads I've been using are pretty good though I'm always open to suggestions.

Greed4Speed

After heavy braking you drive w/out hitting your brakes to let them cool. Not always possible on the street. Thats why you get heavier rotors. They can take more friction w/less of a temp change.

Quietstops would be stock replacements, nothing more. They're designed to be quiet and not dust. Not to provide better braking, but if you're happy with them then keep them. I have the Wagner equivalent (Thermoquiets). Some people really like them. I hate them with a passion and can't wait until I go w/C5 front brakes so I can get rid of them. They're very prone to fade, but they are quiet and don't dust much. Just a stock equivalent.

96camaroSS

I can't speak to the concept of allowing your brakes to cool down properly after repeated hard braking since I've never pushed mine to that point. But, for the average driver who isn't pushing their brakes to the limit, rotor warpage almost always comes down to proper wheel torque. The combination of "normal" heat levels generated by "normal" driving conditions along with uneven stresses on the rotor will cause warpage in time.

I torque mine to 90 ft/lbs in a star pattern and go back over them once again just to double check the torque and I've not had either front or back rotor warpage. I do think going to 100 ft/lbs might be a bit too much even for aluminum wheels.

RedRyder518

I definitely do the star pattern and also go over them again to make sure they are ok. You may very well be correct about 100 ft-lbs being too much. Do you think that is probably the reason for it?

Greed4Speed

Again, I don't torque mine. I tighten by hand with a lug wrench, also in the cross pattern. I currently have Wagner rotors front and stock rears. The rears have over 60k miles and the front I have no clue but they've been on for 2 years now of daily driving. No warpage.
I'm just going C5 because I'm demamding of my brakes and I wan't more stop before my cam swap.

RedRyder518

I don't know if this is related but my ABS INOP light keeps coming on almost every time I drive now. Yesterday I was pulling into a parking spot and the light came on and I noticed a feeling in my brake pedal, it was as if the brakes like suddenly weakened. Any ideas?

96camaroSS

[QUOTE=Greed4Speed]Again, I don't torque mine. I tighten by hand with a lug wrench, also in the cross pattern.

I'm glad that's working for you. But I'll stick with the torque wrench method. I'm just more comfortable knowing that everything is evenly torqued.

About the ABS light and funny peddal feel. I don't really know what's going on there. I've had an occasional ABS light over the years. But never noticed anything unusual in the feel of the brakes. I do know that when you get the light your ABS is not supposed to be functioning and is disabled to prevent it from possibly causing more serious braking problems (i.e. ABS doesn't know exactly what it's doing and could possibly lead to an accident by activating incorrectly.)

cabe_z28

yo redryder, get yourself a dial indicator, put it right up against your rotors and spin them one whole revolution, that will tell you if your rotors are warped.

carolinacasper

Check your brake fluid level.

RedRyder518

I will check it and see....