Warped C5 rotors??
#1
Warped C5 rotors??
I think my C5 brakes are warped, I have a strong shimmy and can feel it through the brake pedal when I'm coming to a stop from high(60+) speeds.
I recently(about 3 months ago) did the C5 brake install w/ Z06 pads. I followed the baer break-in procedure perfectly(as hard as it was).
My stock brakes never warped but they were terrible and faded way too quickly. I don't autocross but my drive to work every day is fairly intense(all back roads) and when I get to work my wheels are HOT.
Questions: Do you think I've warped these rotors or could it be a suspension problem or something else? What rotors do you reccomend I buy if this is what needs to be replaced(I have the GM ones currently)? Is there something wrong with the way I drive if I am actually warping rotors?
Thanks for all the help!
I recently(about 3 months ago) did the C5 brake install w/ Z06 pads. I followed the baer break-in procedure perfectly(as hard as it was).
My stock brakes never warped but they were terrible and faded way too quickly. I don't autocross but my drive to work every day is fairly intense(all back roads) and when I get to work my wheels are HOT.
Questions: Do you think I've warped these rotors or could it be a suspension problem or something else? What rotors do you reccomend I buy if this is what needs to be replaced(I have the GM ones currently)? Is there something wrong with the way I drive if I am actually warping rotors?
Thanks for all the help!
#3
There are a number of suspension components which could lead to the symptoms you describe.
But, if it is directly brake related, then what you are supposing to be warp in the rotor itself is probably just pad material building up unevenly on the surface of the rotors. If you can find a non-public road where you can safely make maximum deceleration stops (without invoking ABS) from 65 mph down to 20 mph, then make 3 such stops back-to-back and then drive around for a while to let the brakes cool. Be sure that you have a little heat in the brakes before you make the panic stops.
You will probably find that there is no more pulsing. This technique does not work with cheap organic based pads, but routinely works for those using an aggressive pad. Also, this won’t work if you have let the buildup continue for too long. The iron under the pad buildup will get hotter than the rest of the rotor and the iron gets harder there. Even if you were to remove the excess pad material, the rotor surface will have varying surface friction and the rotor is simply trashed.
This excessive pad material buildup usually indicates that you are not using the optimum pad for the heat range your brakes are experiencing. Either you are not using your brakes hard enough to clean off the material which builds up from stop-and-go driving (rush hour traffic), or you are exceeding the maximum temperature recommended for the compound you are using. If this cures your symptom, then you might try KFP Gold pads next time, or Hawk HP+ (very dusty), or add brake cooling ducts to your front brakes.
http://stoptech.com/faq/data/faq26.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Bob
But, if it is directly brake related, then what you are supposing to be warp in the rotor itself is probably just pad material building up unevenly on the surface of the rotors. If you can find a non-public road where you can safely make maximum deceleration stops (without invoking ABS) from 65 mph down to 20 mph, then make 3 such stops back-to-back and then drive around for a while to let the brakes cool. Be sure that you have a little heat in the brakes before you make the panic stops.
You will probably find that there is no more pulsing. This technique does not work with cheap organic based pads, but routinely works for those using an aggressive pad. Also, this won’t work if you have let the buildup continue for too long. The iron under the pad buildup will get hotter than the rest of the rotor and the iron gets harder there. Even if you were to remove the excess pad material, the rotor surface will have varying surface friction and the rotor is simply trashed.
This excessive pad material buildup usually indicates that you are not using the optimum pad for the heat range your brakes are experiencing. Either you are not using your brakes hard enough to clean off the material which builds up from stop-and-go driving (rush hour traffic), or you are exceeding the maximum temperature recommended for the compound you are using. If this cures your symptom, then you might try KFP Gold pads next time, or Hawk HP+ (very dusty), or add brake cooling ducts to your front brakes.
http://stoptech.com/faq/data/faq26.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/...otors_myth.htm
Bob
#4
Re: Warped C5 rotors??
Thanks for the replies guys, I will try those panic stops you mentioned bob- unfortunately it has been a few hundred miles since I noticed the problem so I hope there isn't permanent damage. If so then I guess I will try some new pads and rotors.
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