aaron_depue

How much benefit can redistributing the weight help trac times in these cars? I own a 94 z with a auto tranny. Do improvements like fiberglass hodd, relocating the battering and other heavier items like amps and speakers, small tool kits,ect in the trunk actually improve traction and ets? Just curious. Keeping the tires under my car is tough. I got a fully built suspenion, stb, lca, torque arm, sways, poly bush everywhere, sfc(weld), shocks...almost fully. Any validity to the et improvement claims i hear from moving the heavy stuff to the back?

BUBBA

I doubt it. The distribution is more equal with the LS1 because of the aluminum block, but I don't believe you would gain much traction by adding weight or redistributing the weight aft. Now if the car was lightened overallk that's a different story.

For more traction you need some good tires and some suspension mods as well as a strong rear end to take the shock. JMHO

rock1501

get as much out of the front that you can and get a good set of slicks
what power level are you at and what type of tranny?

seawolf06

This only makes a difference once you have done two things:

1. Made large improvements to your entire suspension system. (this includes tires)
2. Lightened the rest of the car enough so that moving a relatively small item like a battery will have a significant impact percentage wise.

Yes, eventually you will get to a point that this makes sense to do, but not on a near stock car by any means.

LaredoZ28

One thing i have done to my car that really helps my traction issues is V6 Springs in the back. Many ppl use them down here. it just soffens the suspention up in the back letting it squat easier and pushed down on ur rear end. Good tires help traction issues also.

slowride94z

I did the opposite I put new springs in the back to pick it up, from squatting, I'm thinking of getting an airbag for the right rear.
one day when I was trying to get into the 12s with nos I ran a 13.50 na then sprayed a little and got low 13s

removed the spare and got closer like 13.01 started letting air out and got 12s then let her cool and got 12.88


there are lots of little things that will improve times one of the first was moving my battery

LaredoZ28

air bags on the right rear does help with torque over and helps traction on that side. Also a good posi trac or locking rearend helps alot. With the motor that is in my sig minus the 100 shot of N2O i should hit mid to low 12's. With nitrous i'm looking to hit a mid 11. it shouldnt be bad for and untuned cammed car. I've got a 10 bolt rearend with a detroit locker and it is holding the 4500 clutch dumps i've been throwing at it.

jasonface

Fixed it for ya

LaredoZ28

I'm sure it will eventually now that i've got that Spec 2. On a stock clutch and a shot cap and rotor it seems to be holding up very well. I'm surprised its lasted this long. I'm only going to b dumping at 2500 now that i've got spary.

aaron_depue

Thanks for the replies guys. I dirve a moded card but its all bolt-ons for the motor, but the suspension is tight and stiff. I am waiting until my motor or tranny require overhauling before i get into the serious power(which i assure you is coming). Im trying to do as much performanc mod-ing as i can, before that day. weight distribution was next on the list. I have been losing weight as i go, usually choosing lighter component parts. I didnt know if relocating the battery was a worth while investment. Do you just ground the battery to the chasis in the trunk? Also what do you need to do with the old ground wire in the engine bay? Do you ground it up front? This is a general question for anyone who has done this before. Thanks

seawolf06

There are several companies that make battery relocation kits. That would be the best idea.