What Subframes?
#2
Re: What Subframes?
kenny browns are nice pieces, but they are huge and heavy. IMO, unless you are going to be doing some very extreme drag racing or road racing, stick with conventional SFC's. cost is much cheaper, and it will work just as well. you probably wont see any benefits on the kenny browns over other boxed weld is sfc's on a normaly driven fast car. UMIperformance.com has good quality weld in boxed sfc's for 139.99 or something close. check them out. i have them and they are flawless so far.
#5
Re: What Subframes?
SLPs are better built than the Kenny Brown ones. If you've ever seen a picture of the KBs after they have been used to jack up the car it isnt pretty. I've seen pictures of them after they have flexed and fatigued. SLPs are made of bigger material where it counts. They weigh 14-18 pounds each, so weight isnt a huge issue.
SLPs hands down....
SLPs hands down....
#6
Re: What Subframes?
Just my 2 cents.
I have had KBDD subframes on my car for well over 5 years now and they have been excellent. They still look great as well. I use them as a jacking point and they have never bent or even come close.
The DDs will get in the way with certain exhaust setups, I had to shorten my purple hornies to fit with the DDs.
Regular tubular or boxed SFCs will be fine for what you want I think.
I have had KBDD subframes on my car for well over 5 years now and they have been excellent. They still look great as well. I use them as a jacking point and they have never bent or even come close.
The DDs will get in the way with certain exhaust setups, I had to shorten my purple hornies to fit with the DDs.
Regular tubular or boxed SFCs will be fine for what you want I think.
#7
Re: What Subframes?
I have edelbrocks. They reach about 16" further forward than most, and fully wrap the trailing arm mounts in back. For some reason, the front subframe stops, then restarts with a 10" gap. Most connectors weld on where it resumes, the EBs actually box that open section in. Much, much stronger end product, and huge jacking pads. I couldn't be happier. Good luck!
#8
Re: What Subframes?
Originally Posted by 5.0THIS
SLPs are better built than the Kenny Brown ones. If you've ever seen a picture of the KBs after they have been used to jack up the car it isnt pretty. I've seen pictures of them after they have flexed and fatigued. SLPs are made of bigger material where it counts. They weigh 14-18 pounds each, so weight isnt a huge issue.
SLPs hands down....
SLPs hands down....
SLP here too, biult awsome, and light too.
#9
Re: What Subframes?
I have the Hotchkis and love them. They are about $200, but they sacrifice no ground clearance and are virtually invisible unless you are looking for them. I have had them on the car since 1995 and the powdercoating still looks excellent.
--Alan
--Alan
#12
Re: What Subframes?
im looking into getting SLP's also, anyone have any negative things happen with the bolt-ons, i have HEARD, they strip holes, bend bolts, not as strong, blah blah blah, but a few of my friends have the bolt-ons and really like them... anyone here have any issues? and also, sorry for semi-thread jack, but does anyone have any pictures of the kelly brown or SLP installed??
#13
Re: What Subframes?
Originally Posted by CreatiVe2
im looking into getting SLP's also, anyone have any negative things happen with the bolt-ons, i have HEARD, they strip holes, bend bolts, not as strong, blah blah blah, but a few of my friends have the bolt-ons and really like them... anyone here have any issues? and also, sorry for semi-thread jack, but does anyone have any pictures of the kelly brown or SLP installed??
#14
Re: What Subframes?
The problem isnt with SLP bolt in's, but rather bolt in SFC's in general. The problems occur after a while, and usually the bolts tend to loosen up, or the bolt holes elongate, making them weaker. Plus, they usually cost about 100 more. Just get the weld in ones, much more "attached surface"
#15
Re: What Subframes?
i was thinkign about getting the weld in, but i dont know of a shop that will do it, and i have heard muffler shops can do it, but how much does that run? plus the Weld in SLP SFC's are unfinnished... which , in the long run would cause rust, wouldnt it?