Wilwood superlite 6 piston vs Baer Claw GT+ which is better?
#1
Wilwood superlite 6 piston vs Baer Claw GT+ which is better?
I did a search but couldnt find any conclusive opinions. I know that dropping $3-3500 would certainly take care of my braking needs but I really dont have that to spend.
I track my Z a few times a year... HARD, and participate in about a dozen SOLOII events a year. I just got back from watkins glen on tuesday and in 2.5 hours of track time my car ate up a set of slotted cross drilled rotors, a set of full race pads (satisfied 5.1's), then a brand new set of my street pads (bendix titanium metallic) on my factory rotors. This is with cutting threshold braking down to entry into turns 1, and the bus stop. End of the day, one seized caliper, and not enough brakes to get home. Problem is I drive the car daily, so I need a setup that the only thing I change is the pads and fluid for each track event.
I have about 1500 bucks to spend, dont really think the C5 setup is right for me. In case it helps I am running 17" ZR-1 wheels (17x9.5 front, 17x10.5 rear, real GM ones)
I would only run a slotted rotor for either setup (for durability), after seeing the amount of radial cracking I had on the last set of crossdrilled rotors I ran.
Also, anyone get a good way to duct some more air over the brakes? Doesnt look like a lot of options to me when crawling around in the wheel well...
Thanks!
I track my Z a few times a year... HARD, and participate in about a dozen SOLOII events a year. I just got back from watkins glen on tuesday and in 2.5 hours of track time my car ate up a set of slotted cross drilled rotors, a set of full race pads (satisfied 5.1's), then a brand new set of my street pads (bendix titanium metallic) on my factory rotors. This is with cutting threshold braking down to entry into turns 1, and the bus stop. End of the day, one seized caliper, and not enough brakes to get home. Problem is I drive the car daily, so I need a setup that the only thing I change is the pads and fluid for each track event.
I have about 1500 bucks to spend, dont really think the C5 setup is right for me. In case it helps I am running 17" ZR-1 wheels (17x9.5 front, 17x10.5 rear, real GM ones)
I would only run a slotted rotor for either setup (for durability), after seeing the amount of radial cracking I had on the last set of crossdrilled rotors I ran.
Also, anyone get a good way to duct some more air over the brakes? Doesnt look like a lot of options to me when crawling around in the wheel well...
Thanks!
Last edited by z28chrizz; 07-29-2006 at 08:20 AM.
#2
Re: Wilwood superlite 6 piston vs Baer Claw GT+ which is better?
Two things come to mind reading your post...
Why do you think the C5 brakes wouldnt be for you? I think they would work great for what you want to do. They've proven more than adequate for hard track use, and replacement rotors can be had for 25$ at NAPA, and pads are relativly cheap as well. As often as you will go through pads and rotors, I see the other setups being extremely costly. The Wilwoods might perform slightly better on the road courses, but have no dust covers for street use, and like I said, maintenance costs will be obsurd.
And why only slotted rotors? They do little if anything for brake cooling/pad sweeping, and still crack easier than standard rotors.
The best thing you can do for yourself is the brake ducting... anything will help, but you'll probably have to build something that comes in over the swaybar, or in that general area.
Why do you think the C5 brakes wouldnt be for you? I think they would work great for what you want to do. They've proven more than adequate for hard track use, and replacement rotors can be had for 25$ at NAPA, and pads are relativly cheap as well. As often as you will go through pads and rotors, I see the other setups being extremely costly. The Wilwoods might perform slightly better on the road courses, but have no dust covers for street use, and like I said, maintenance costs will be obsurd.
And why only slotted rotors? They do little if anything for brake cooling/pad sweeping, and still crack easier than standard rotors.
The best thing you can do for yourself is the brake ducting... anything will help, but you'll probably have to build something that comes in over the swaybar, or in that general area.
#3
Re: Wilwood superlite 6 piston vs Baer Claw GT+ which is better?
If I was in your shoes....
I'd find a piece of leather. Place it in my mouth and bite really hard while deciding to spend another $500. Then buy the Stoptech kit with slotted rotors.
The initial outlay hurts, but the cost of consumables (how long the rotors and pads last) will make up for it in the end. And even discounting that, the peace of mind alone is well worth it if you want to go to the track very often.
You'll have brakes to drive home on without carrying a trunkload of spares.
I'd find a piece of leather. Place it in my mouth and bite really hard while deciding to spend another $500. Then buy the Stoptech kit with slotted rotors.
The initial outlay hurts, but the cost of consumables (how long the rotors and pads last) will make up for it in the end. And even discounting that, the peace of mind alone is well worth it if you want to go to the track very often.
You'll have brakes to drive home on without carrying a trunkload of spares.
#4
Re: Wilwood superlite 6 piston vs Baer Claw GT+ which is better?
Originally Posted by 5.0THIS
Two things come to mind reading your post...
Why do you think the C5 brakes wouldnt be for you? I think they would work great for what you want to do. They've proven more than adequate for hard track use, and replacement rotors can be had for 25$ at NAPA, and pads are relativly cheap as well. As often as you will go through pads and rotors, I see the other setups being extremely costly. The Wilwoods might perform slightly better on the road courses, but have no dust covers for street use, and like I said, maintenance costs will be obsurd.
And why only slotted rotors? They do little if anything for brake cooling/pad sweeping, and still crack easier than standard rotors.
The best thing you can do for yourself is the brake ducting... anything will help, but you'll probably have to build something that comes in over the swaybar, or in that general area.
Why do you think the C5 brakes wouldnt be for you? I think they would work great for what you want to do. They've proven more than adequate for hard track use, and replacement rotors can be had for 25$ at NAPA, and pads are relativly cheap as well. As often as you will go through pads and rotors, I see the other setups being extremely costly. The Wilwoods might perform slightly better on the road courses, but have no dust covers for street use, and like I said, maintenance costs will be obsurd.
And why only slotted rotors? They do little if anything for brake cooling/pad sweeping, and still crack easier than standard rotors.
The best thing you can do for yourself is the brake ducting... anything will help, but you'll probably have to build something that comes in over the swaybar, or in that general area.
Slotted rotors according to my research and own personal experience are more durable and do a great job at venting gasses, not to mention "shave" the pad to ensure a clean mating surface.
Brake ducting... hmm I found a site who makes ducting splash shields for 3rd gens... someone know a setup for the ls1 cars?
Thanks for everyones input
#5
Re: Wilwood superlite 6 piston vs Baer Claw GT+ which is better?
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