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Writeup/How to on replacing the Rack and pinion of the Fbody?

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Old 12-02-2008, 05:35 PM
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Writeup/How to on replacing the Rack and pinion of the Fbody?

I've looked around but I don't see one. I just purchased a replacement for this sloppy steering original setup and would just like a guide/recommendation for it.
Thanks!
Dave
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Old 12-07-2008, 03:18 PM
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Straight forward swap. Make sure you don't turn the steering wheel more that one turn either direction when the coupler is disconnected from the rack as you will damage the airbag harness. Measure the distance from the rack to the 2 outer tie rod ends. You will want to transfer or replace the outer tie rods and get them located correctly to keep your alignment (toe in) close. It's best to get an alignment when you're done. Also use line wrenched to remove power steering lines to prevent rounding off the hardware. Shoebox has a power steering fluid bleed procedure here: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#psflush
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Old 12-07-2008, 04:37 PM
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Thanks. I put it on yesterday using the 'count the turns' method. I guess there's a potential for the manufacturers of the replacement tie rod ends (Moog in this case) to be 'off' a bit. The drivers side took 19 turns, the passenger side took 20 turns. Well enough, thought I. Well, I put everything on, bleed the system and took her for a test drive. The responsiveness felt wonderful (the old original had about 20 degrees of freeplay before it contacted the opposite tooth) but it felt a bit 'twitchy' on the street. I drove back to the house and got out and looked across the flat of the drivers side tire in relation to the rear, then looked at the passenger side in the same way. Ooops... Kinda splayed there Dave. Lol.. I jacked up the front end, peeled the tires back off and ultimately gave each side an additional two turns in and now it feels great. Like you say, an alignment will be next.
Thanks for the references!



Originally Posted by OBE1 95Z28
Straight forward swap. Make sure you don't turn the steering wheel more that one turn either direction when the coupler is disconnected from the rack as you will damage the airbag harness. Measure the distance from the rack to the 2 outer tie rod ends. You will want to transfer or replace the outer tie rods and get them located correctly to keep your alignment (toe in) close. It's best to get an alignment when you're done. Also use line wrenched to remove power steering lines to prevent rounding off the hardware. Shoebox has a power steering fluid bleed procedure here: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#psflush

Last edited by DirtyDaveW; 12-07-2008 at 10:40 PM.
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:13 PM
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I didn't know you could get better rack and pinion setups that tighten it up. Where did you get this/who makes it? Is it manual or power?

Last edited by MarcR94v6; 12-07-2008 at 10:16 PM.
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Old 12-07-2008, 10:46 PM
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It's just a stock (power steering) replacement from Autozone. I was just trying to convey how badly my original stock rack and pinion had deteriorated with the large amount of slop/play in steering and how much better it is now.
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Old 12-08-2008, 12:29 AM
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oh, ic. Mine is apparently leaking, play isn't too bad, but is not nearly as tight as my GF's mach 1.
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